My second trip to Fernie didn't look quite as promising as the first (click here). This had been one of the worst years on record for snowfall with the entire snowpack standing at less than a metre by the end of January. The previous year we had 30 cm of snow on the first day, which is more the type of snowfall you associate with this up and coming resort. I can't recall what the official snow reports said at the time but I dug a couple of snow holes during the week and can certify that 91 cm was as high as it got. We were in Fernie for a week, however 2 days of that were to be taken up doing an avalanche awareness course and I was hoping to go catboarding for 1 or 2 days as well. Because of the bad conditions I spent most of the remaining days with my Dad, who was just recovering from a leg injury, and we spent a very pleasant couple of days cruising up and down green and blue runs. Occasionally I took time out to practice riding on moguls and sheet ice and also got quite good at jumping over branches that were sticking out of the ground.

These two photos illustrate perfectly the difference between the two years. The photo on the left was taken last year, showing the Cedar bowl the way it should be, whereas the photo on the right was taken this year. Still, there's nothing you can really do about the weather, the Fernie management were trying their hardest to keep as many runs and lifts open as possible, clearing stones off the pistes and even resorting to snowmaking at resort level, a sight previously unseen on the slopes of Fernie Alpine Resort.

"We don't have snowmaking, because we don't need it" the brochure proudly boasts.

There were a few more notable changes at the resort the second time round. Firstly, and more disappointingly the hard sell has begun. Property agents are present at every turn desperately trying to sell you a piece of the hill. You can't even go into the newly built Starbucks for a cup of coffee without someone pushing a brochure into your face. Fernie is beginning to resemble a real estate office with a ski hill attached to it, which is a shame because this can only distract from the true nature of the place. One can only feel that Lake Louise had a lucky escape on the real estate front with the building restrictions forced on it by its position in Banff National Park.

The Great Bear Chairlift

The lodge is still the same, still serving top notch breakfasts to the powder starved masses. However the ski in/out aspect of the lodge has gone, because the powers that be have decided, in their infinite wisdom, to concrete over the area between the 3 main buildings at the base of the hill. Although this does create a nice plaza effect allowing punters to walk safely round all the new shops and restaurants, it does slightly impede your transit between lifts. The new Great Bear chairlift is a triumph. It is without a doubt the comfiest chairlift I've ever been on and it's quick as well.
      The town itself seem to be undergoing some major transformations and had sprouted a number of new hotels, another sign that Fernie is going places. Whether the locals and the people who've grown to love the place over the years like these changes remains to be seen.

Despite all of these negative aspects, Fernie remains a town on the up, while still retaining some of its original charm. It remains one of the best resorts in North America/Canada. The terrain is diverse and the snow record is usually outstanding. The backcountry opportunities alone are enough to make your mouth water. Even during a bad year there was plenty of powder to be had in the backcountry, if only you know where to look (you'll need a guide for this if you're not familiar with the area). Most of these areas are accessible from the resort lift systems as well which allows for a much less strenuous trip. On a good day, there isn't a resort anywhere that's better than Fernie for snow quality, choice of terrain, backcountry access, non-existent lift queues and reasonable prices. Shame there wasn't much snow really.

Ski patrollers whizzing down the slopes removing stones with ice hockey sticks.

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